Saturday, January 5, 2013

Poppy Seed and Rosemary Soda Bread


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I made my first batch of soda bread while living in a spacious though rather miserable basement (re: underground) apartment in Portland. We lived a long walk from the nearest store, and I suffered from a back injury over the spring and summer. So inspired utilization of whatever was in the cupboard that morning became an all-too-true philosophy.

Luckily I discovered the joy of soda bread, which is a lazy, injured, tired, or hungover baker's best friend. No kneading, no yeasting, no rising. Let me be clear here: I enjoy making yeast bread as well! The only catch to this quicker version: the bread doesn't keep very well. Not that it molds, stales, or becomes in any other word "bad." The glory of the soda flavor melded with the tang and crumb of the buttermilk, however, is a slightly fleeting experience. The texture becomes slightly chewier as well. So eat it the day you bake it for best appreciation. Nothing, however, will stop you whatsoever from throwing yesterday's soda bread in the toaster oven with some cheese, using it to sop up a runny egg, or from absolutely slathering it in peanut butter. That one is my ultimate favorite.

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Don't have buttermilk? Use yogurt (thinner is better; save your strained Greek business for topping with honey or olives!) or a thinned-out sour cream. The key is acid and a bit of body. The acid works with the baking soda (a base) and leavens the bread.

Don't have poppy seeds or rosemary? Try out your favorite combination, or try none at all. I've done so many versions myself. Like I said earlier, it's a perfect way to use up whatever is in your cupboard!

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A note: do not let your dough sit mixed while you wait for the oven to come up in temperature. The soda and buttermilk will begin acting upon each other as soon as they meet in your mixture. It's best to throw it together at the last moment and put it straight into the oven.
Here I use whole wheat pastry flour, which is both finer than regular whole wheat and lower in gluten (it is made from soft white wheat). I prefer the flavor and heartiness over AP flour. Use whatever you prefer: even mix oat or rye with some wheat flour. Yum!

Tool recommendations: nothing out of the ordinary.

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Poppy Seed and Rosemary Soda Bread


Recipe by Cowen Park Kitchen
A speedy baking-soda risen Irish bread with a lot of personality.

Ingredients
  • 2 c. whole wheat pastry flour
  • 1 c. buttermilk
  • 1 T. poppy seeds
  • 1 t. baking soda
  • 1/2 kosher salt
  • 1/4 t. very finely chopped rosemary
  • pinch finishing salt (optional)
Methods
  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
  2. While oven is heating up, combine poppy seeds and buttermilk.
  3. In separate bowl, mix baking soda with flour and salt.
  4. When oven is ready, combine dry mix with wet and work just until blended. It will be very solid and sticky.
  5. Plop on a parchment, well-oiled sheet tray, or Silpat and form into a 6-8" round.
  6. Slit top half gently into quarters, sixths, or eights. Top with remaining whole rosemary, if any leftover, and finishing salt, if desired.
  7. Bake for 30-35 minutes, rotating once.

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